German Shepherd Central » General Care

Tools to Help You Walk Your German Shepherd in Style

admin — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 18:46:06 +0000

Do you want to walk your German Shepherd in style? Here are four different tools you can use when walking your dog, and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Regular choke collar. The main disadvantage to a choke or chain collar is that these give the dog walker very little control over their pets. German Shepherds typically are able to pull right through these collars. In addition, the slip action of the collar can actually damage your dog’s trachea.
Martingale or greyhound-style collar. These limited-slip collars function just like a plain buckle collar, except that when your German Shepherd pulls, the collar tightens enough that it can’t slip over the dog’s head. Many people find these collars useful for walking a well-trained but large dog, such as a German Shepherd, or a dog who can easily slip a regular collar.
Head halter. The Gentle Leader and Halti are two examples of head halters. Two advantages of the head halter are that they give the walker control over the dog’s muzzle, and creates power steering. A disadvantage of the head halter is that German Shepherds usually dislike wearing them, at least at first, so the owner needs to train the dog to wear the halter using positive reinforcement. Another disadvantage of the head halter is that if a dog likes to pull, it can rub the dog’s face. The third disadvantage is that unless the dog walker is willing to use the halter to teach the dog not to pull, the dog can still learn to pull right through the halter.
Anti-pull harness. An anti-pull harness is not the same as a regular body harness. A regular body harness fits around the dog’s chest, straps under its stomach and clips in the back. These harnesses are very similar to the style used by sled dogs — and guess what those are designed to do? Such harnesses encourage a dog to pull. An anti-pull harness typically clips in the front and physically prevents the dog from pulling, because the dog’s front legs become crossed if it tries. These work for all but the most dedicated pullers and are usually well accepted by German Shepherds.

Teach your German Shepherd ‘Wipe Your Paws’

admin — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 22:10:24 +0000

With cooler weather comes rain, sleet, snow and ice. Wiping your German Shepherd’s paws after every walk is not only good for your carpets and flooring, but helps ensure your dog’s feet aren’t harboring burrs or don’t get burned by road salt.

If your German Shepherd is one of those who always kicks up the grass and dirt behind him after he does his business, the bulk of the groundwork is already laid out for you. What you need to do is use the positive reinforcement technique while speaking the phrase you want him to associate with this behavior. Tell him “Good ‘wipe your feet’, Rex! Good ‘wipe your feet’!” repeatedly when you catch him in the act, while scratching his favorite spot and treating him to a cookie. This will encourage him to try with all of his might to replicate the action.

The next step to take is getting him to repeat it in the appropriate place. Once he has caught on to the command of wiping his feet, bring him to the area you want him to begin performing this trick. For example, walk him to your welcome mat or a rug inside your front door. When he is standing on the rug or mat, use the phrase he is accustomed to. Make sure you have a treat, and that he knows it.

If your German Shepherd never kicks up the ground, getting him to perform the act is the first step. What you can do instead is train him to wait on a mat or rug so that you can wipe his feet off for him. Use the basic “Stay” or “Wait” cue every time he comes in the door. Wipe his paws, telling him “Wipe your feet” or even just “Foot!” Give him a special treat after each foot. Pretty soon he’ll be holding up each foot for you to wipe.

Your friends and neighbors will want to know how you manage to keep your floors so clean!

New Year, New Hope for Chained Dogs

admin — Tue, 01 Jan 2008 21:17:34 +0000

Far too many German Shepherds live their lives on the end of a chain.

Pictured is Joshua, a one- to two-year-old male German Shepherd I rescued from the side of a busy highway with a logging chain literally bolted to his heavy-duty collar. Whatever attempt his previous owner made to keep him at home failed, thankfully. He was later adopted by a family of four, who lets him sleep on the bed and plays basketball with him!

If you know of a dog, any dog, that spends its life anchored on a chain, Karen Pryor has put together an excellent guide to getting involved in the situation and improving conditions for the dog. This is worth making a New Year’s resolution to do.

If direct intervention in a chained dog’s life isn’t possible, you can join a number of national campaigns to end the chaining of dogs, including UnchainYourDog.org and DogsDeserveBetter.org. The Humane Society of the United States also offers a number of tips and resources for those looking to end the chaining of dogs.

Chaining a German Shepherd isn’t just inhumane, it’s downright dangerous. Dogs who are chained or tethered are more likely to hang themselves or become targets for thieves, bullies or other animals.

What’s worse, a 2000 study published in the Sept. 15 issue of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association noted that 17 percent of dogs involved in fatal attacks on humans between 1979 and 1998 were chained at the time of the incident. Chained dogs are more likely to develop aggressive behavior because they are unable to communicate normally and therefore become frustrated or over-aroused. The victims of such aggression are usually children, who wander unwittingly into the dogs’ path.

Furthermore, a German Shepherd is bred to be a working companion and therefore must be raised indoors as a member of the family to develop its full breed potential. Unsupervised German Shepherds are at risk for developing aggressive behavior and becoming further subjected to unfair breed-specific legislation.

For the sake of dogs everywhere, let’s bring them inside!

Five Things To Do Before Bringing Your New Puppy Home

admin — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 17:36:12 +0000

Source: Flickr

Those little balls of fluff are adorable, but life can become miserable without accomplishing at least these five tasks first:

Buy a crate. A crate is an indispensable tool for house training, as well as keeping your belongings and your puppy safe while you are gone. Crate-training takes a few days if your breeder hasn’t already started it with your new puppy, but most puppies take to it quickly if you are diligent.
Choose your vet. If you don’t already have a veterinarian for other pets, ask your friends, co-workers or breeder who they recommend. If possible, schedule a “well puppy” visit with your veterinarian for the day after you bring your puppy home. (Most breeders will require the puppy be examined by a vet within 48 to 72 hours of purchase for the health guarantee to be honored.) When shopping for a vet, don’t hesitate to ask about recommended vaccination schedules, costs, restraint methods, and whether the clinic offers any “extras,” such as boarding or microchipping.
Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class. A training class for puppies aged 8 to 18 weeks is a vital component of your new puppy’s life. These classes will not only get you started on the basics of obedience training and house manners, but should also allow your puppy the opportunity to play with other puppies. This is a must if you plan for your puppy to interact with other dogs throughout its life. Again, ask friends, your vet and breeder for recommendations, and visit the class in advance of enrolling, when possible.
Prepare the menu. Decide before you bring your puppy home what food you will feed. Kibble, raw, home cooked or frozen — the variety of choices at the moment is astounding, so take some time to research options before selecting a food or feeding method. The solution is to choose an option that meets your puppy’s nutrient requirements, and that you feel good about preparing and feeding.
Get some toys. What’s life with a puppy without dog toys strewn about the house? Choose sturdy, easy-to-wash toys that appeal to your puppy’s desire to chew. Rope tug toys and “puppy” chew bones are fine, so long as your puppy is only playing with them while supervised. Do not allow a puppy to chew any toy not specifically labeled for chewing (especially rope or cloth toys). Buy enough toys that you can rotate a couple sets in and out of your puppy’s life — they’ll be like new again!

Choosing Toys for Your German Shepherd

admin — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 22:00:41 +0000

Most German Shepherds take their play ultra-seriously — so it’s up to us to find toys that satisfy this powerful play drive, are safe, and last more than 20 seconds once the dog starts using them!

My German Shepherds love fetch above all games, so toys that feed this frenzy are the ones I gravitate toward. Soft latex or plush toys aren’t suitable for most adult shepherds (although some German Shepherds, females especially, enjoy carrying around a fleecy toy like it’s a puppy). Stuffed animals, particularly those with squeakers, tend to be disemboweled after only minutes of playing fetch, and latex ones are torn apart even faster.

Besides fetch, a game of tug with me or another dog makes my German Shepherds’ list of all-time fun activities, so knotted rope bones, strong rubber tug toys or large plastic bones are in the toy box.

My first criteria when choosing a toy is “Will it last more than five minutes?” If the answer is yes, then the toy likely passes the safety test, as well (no word on dog toys recalled from China). The second is, “Will my dog play with it?” Toy-treat combinations, such as products made from rawhide, might be enjoyed, but unless I use them for hide ‘n’ seek, only the dogs’ jaws will be exercised! Outside of treats shaped like toys, German Shepherds are usually happy to make a toy from anything, but it’s important to start teaching your German Shepherd early in puppy hood which objects are his and which objects belong to you.

Here are three of my favorite German Shepherd toys:

If ever a toy was designed specifically for German Shepherd Dogs, the Kong Company has made it happen. The “Ultra” Black Kong toy is made for hard chewers and can withstand more abuse than its red counterpart. If you have one of those rare German Shepherds who does not enjoy chasing or chewing the Kong, stuff it full of canned food and freeze — Voila! A doggie Popsicle!

The Jawz disc by Hyperflite is an extremely durable disc that flies just like a regular one. My large male German Shepherd will destroy a regular plastic disc in one 20-minute play session. Although puppies and young dogs should not jump to catch discs until their growth plates have closed, you can begin teaching German Shepherds of any age how to grab short tosses and snatch rollers off the ground.

The Tug-A-Jug by Premier Pet Products is my new favorite dog toy. Like the Kong, you can pack it with treats (I feed my dogs their dinner by using the screw-top lid to fill the jug), and it stands up to harsh treatment. The rope inside the jug is handy for a game of tug, as well, although my shark-dogs chew it in half first thing — so I don’t leave them alone with this toy unless the rope is removed.

German Shepherd Site Herder

admin — Wed, 24 Oct 2007 23:02:11 +0000

Here are a few blogs and blog communities whose pages you should bookmark (besides this one)! All About Dog Training Blog Carnival offers a variety of articles on dog training, currently in its second edition; ClickerTraining.com offers both a community training blog and blogs written by users; and the Dog.com Community is packed with features allowing you to connect with other German Shepherd fans, including blogging and photo gallery tools and forums.

GermanShepherds.com has it all for the German Shepherd lover — forums, chat rooms, articles, dog food recipes, a photo club, you name it. And Yahoo! offers a variety of German Shepherd-related e-mail lists through its Yahoo! Groups service. My favorites are GSD-Euro, German Shepherd Dog Genetics and German Shepherd Dogs.

Bookmark These Six German Shepherd Health Websites

admin — Wed, 17 Oct 2007 14:07:51 +0000

Whether you already have a German Shepherd (or two or three or more!), or are thinking about adopting your first German Shepherd from a breeder, shelter or rescue, here are six websites to help you navigate the minefield of health issues prevalent in the breed:

Orthopedic Foundation for Animals: The OFA is the primary certifying body in the United States for screening dogs for elbow and hip dysplasia.
PennHip: PennHip is the latest diagnostic tool in the fight against hip dysplasia; x-rays are taken of the dog’s hips at different angles and requires precise positioning by a trained practitioner to be acceptable for review.
Canine Eye Registration Foundation: CERF maintains a registry of and certification process for dogs free of congenital eye disease. Eye diseases common to German Shepherds include pannus (a corneal inflammation), juvenile cataracts, Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and Multifocal Retinal Dysplasia.
Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (Bloat): Although this site targets owners of all large breed dogs, German Shepherd caretakers will want to take note of the signs and symptoms of this often deadly condition. Also included are tips on what to do if your dog is showing signs of bloat.
von Willebrand Disease: An interview with noted veterinarian Dr. Jean Dodds from the American White Shepherd Association about von Willebrand Disease, an inherited bleeding disorder common to German Shepherds.
Perianal Fistulas: Although an unpleasant subject, German Shepherds are more prone to these life-threatening, painful infections than most breeds.

What is Canine Hip Dysplasia?

admin — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:00:22 +0000

Canine Hip Dysplasia is a hereditary, degenerative disease common in many large breed dogs and large mixed breed dogs that can cause crippling arthritis in the hips. This disease is especially prevalent in German Shepherds; the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals notes that one in five German Shepherds whose hips are x-rayed and reported to the OFA show signs of the disease.

Normal hip joints function with a “ball-and-socket” construction; the head of the femur, or thigh bone, fits tightly within a circular inlet in the pelvis.

Source: Gulf Cost Veterinary Specialists

In dogs who are suffering from hip dysplasia, the ball does not fit snugly within the socket; the head of the femur can be shaped incorrectly, or be a loose fit with the pelvis, or both. This condition causes unusually heavy friction on the joint as the dog moves, which in turn can lead to osteoarthritis, a painful inflammation of the joint.

Source: Gulf Coast Veterinary Specialists

Hip dysplasia is rated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals as mild, moderate or severe (there is also a “borderline” category, which indicates the dog is capable of developing hip dysplasia). Dogs with hip dysplasia can show few symptoms, or become incapacitated, depending on the severity of the dysplasia, the progression of arthritis, and environmental factors such as weight and exercise level. Although surgical options are available for severely affected dogs, these are often expensive and are accompanied by a long recovery period.

Hip dysplasia is almost always evident by the time a dog is 18-24 months old. There is no way to declare a dog free from hip dysplasia, or diagnose hip dysplasia, without hip x-rays.

The most common visible signs of hip dysplasia include difficulty rising, stiffness or soreness following heavy exercise, a distinct gait in which the back legs move together rather than independently, and reduced muscle mass around the hips and thighs. Some severely affected puppies will develop a limp before they’re five months old; to the untrained eye, this limp appears to be on a forelimb, rather than hind, as might be suspected with pain in the hip joints.

Maintaining a dog with hip dysplasia requires attention to nutrition, weight, exercise and activity levels. Check with your veterinarian regarding medical options, including surgery or anti-inflammatory drugs.

For more information, see:

Debunking Dog Myths

admin — Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:00:22 +0000

You think you know your dog? See if your dog has been subject to any of these popular canine myths.

Talk to anyone from your next-door neighbor to your cousin who shows dogs, and you’ll hear a variety of interpretations on dogs and dog behavior. Some of the most common myths I hear regarding our canine friends are debunked below.

Source: Flickr
German Shepherds may have some wolf-like characteristics, but rest assured they are 100 percent domesticated dog.

Myth: Dogs are essentially wolves.

Because science tells us dogs are direct descendants of wolves, animal behaviorists and dog trainers assumed for a long time that dog and wolf behavior are interchangeable. We now know this is not the case. Biologists now hypothesize dogs are not pack animals, but semi-solitary scavengers, and do not form social hierarchies the same way wolves do.

Using “alpha rolls” or other forceful techniques in an attempt to thwart perceived “dominant” behavior is unecessary, and is often seen by dogs as an act of aggression.

The Monks of New Skete, who popularized the wolf-to-dog culture trend in their book, “How to Be A Dog’s Best Friend,” have since omitted such training suggestions in the book’s revised edition.

Top animal behaviorists, including Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson, Patricia McConnell and Karen Pryor, agree solid leadership is best achieved by controlling the dog’s access to resources without resorting to the use of force.

Myth: Dogs want to please.

This is not entirely untrue. Dogs DO want to please – themselves. Dogs are exceedingly selfish. They do what they do because making us happy means they get more of what they want – attention, food and freedom.
Our mistaken belief in dog altruism is why we are so perplexed when the dog uses a behavior we DON’T like — such as jumping up, barking or digging — to get what it wants.

The good news: You can use this ubiquitous doggie trait to your advantage by controlling the dog’s environment and the consequences of its behavior. For example, if the dog is getting in the trash, you can confine the dog or confine the trash. Or if you’d like the dog not tear the door off its hinges as it goes out, you can request a sit from the dog before opening the door.

Myth: Dog training takes lots of time.

Teaching your dog new tricks takes lots of consistency, and a little time. Breaking bad habits takes more consistency, and a little more time. Every interaction you have with your dog is a training situation. When the dog paws at your leg and you absentmindedly reach down to pet it, you are training. When the dog lies quietly at your feet while you watch TV and you absentmindedly reach down to pet it, you are training.

The key to teaching good habits and breaking bad ones is to not be absentminded around your dog! Be consistent and be aware, and the training will take less time than you think. To borrow from top K-9 trainer Steve White: Remember that training is taking place until either you or the dog achieves room temperature.

Myth: An aggressive dog is a protective dog.

Aggressive dogs, simply put, won’t tell friend from foe. Dogs, in most cases, are much less adept at reading human intentions than we’d like to believe. My dogs bark wildly every time I return home, despite repeated admonishments of, “It’s STILL me!”

An aggressive dog is much more likely to threaten or injure you, your family, neighbors or friends than it is to ward off intruders. If you want a dog for protection, go out and get the biggest, happiest dog you can find, then train it exceedingly well in obedience. Would-be bad guys won’t want to find out what else the dog knows, and you won’t have to worry about the dog misfiring on you, your family, friends and other animals.

Myth: Dogs don’t have feelings.

Well, anyone who’s ever looked into those adorable, deep brown eyes knows this isn’t true. But science is finally catching up to the fact that dogs and other animals, while not expressing the emotional range we recognize in humans, are sentient creatures. The Economist in February reported that new scientific research is beginning to shake tradition to allow for the recognition and documentation of animal emotions. Personality aspects distinctive to dogs were labeled “sociability,” “affection,” “emotional stability” and “competence,” in studies by Samuel Gosling at the University of Texas in Austin.

Dr. Gosling’s conclusions will allow behaviorists to better understand individual animals’ personality differences, while giving dog owners one more reason to refer to their pets as members of the family.