German Shepherd Central » Puppies

3 Ways to Keep Your German Shepherd From Jumping Up

admin — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 15:55:07 +0000

Teaching your German Shepherd not to jump up on you or your guests may seem like an impossible task, especially if you have a dog who loves people (and people who love dogs)! How many times have your guests been greeted at the door by your overenthusiastic German Shepherd’s nose and front feet, while you haplessly shout “No! Down! Stop it!” in the background? Or you meet a friend while walking your GSD, your dog jumps up, and your friend praises and pets the dog, and says, “Oh, it’s OK, I love dogs!”?

Let’s work on changing that scene with three simple strategies for training your dog not to jump on people. You’ll have the most success with your dog if you use these approaches in combination with one another.

Idea Number One: Ignore the jumping. Unless your dog weighs more than 60 lbs. or is using his mouth when he jumps, ignoring jumping up is the fastest way to permanently make it go away. Dogs jump up to get your attention — so stop giving it to them! Pushing your dog down, yelling “No!”, kneeing him in the chest, stepping on his back toes, bopping him on the head or any other interaction you can think of are a “score” in the needy dog’s book, and make him even more likely to jump next time. (After all, if a dog wants something, what’s the first thing he has to get? Your attention.) To instruct others on how to completely ignore your jumping dog, ask them to turn their backs, cross their arms and look up at the ceiling until all four of your dog’s feet are on the floor.

Idea Number Two: Manage the behavior (of both people AND dogs). The doorbell rings — where is your dog? Rushing, barking, to the door, waiting to pounce the minute it’s opened? Before you answer the door, grab a leash and put it on your dog. Then use the leash to keep the dog out of jumping up range, even tethering your dog in a secure location if necessary. This strategy is a must for adult German Shepherds, or if your guests don’t like dogs, or your German Shepherd mouths and bites when he or she jumps. On the street, keep enough distance between your dog and anyone unlikely to follow your rules so the jumping isn’t reinforced (and follow Idea Number Three).

Idea Number Three: Teach your German Shepherd an incompatible behavior. A sitting dog isn’t jumping up — simple as that. Work on improving your dog’s sit or down at the door while no guests are there, and on walks while no one’s around. Then you can ask for and reward a sit or down during progressively more difficult trials: You ring the doorbell, you pretend to greet a guest, enlist a friend or family member to play the guest’s part, etc. When the time comes, have really great treats handy and either you or your guest can ask your dog to sit or down BEFORE the dog jumps. Ask people not to pet your dog unless he is sitting or lying down.

Like everything else in dog training, consistency is key. Teach everyone in your family these strategies, and soon your German Shepherd will have one more feather in his good manners cap.

When Should I Start Training My German Shepherd Puppy?

admin — Sat, 12 Apr 2008 20:52:33 +0000

“How old does my puppy have to be before I can begin training?”

This is a question I am asked often. The German Shepherd puppy in this video is 10 weeks old; but you don’t even have to wait that long! “Training” starts the day you bring your new dog or puppy home to live with you — GSDs are learning all the time. This is why it is easier to prevent problems and bad habits than to solve them later.

But what most people mean when they ask this question is, “How soon can I expect my German Shepherd puppy to start performing tricks and basic obedience behaviors?” Happily, the answer is the same — immediately. Clicker training is an easy and fun way to accomplish this.

Five Things To Do Before Bringing Your New Puppy Home

admin — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 17:36:12 +0000

Source: Flickr

Those little balls of fluff are adorable, but life can become miserable without accomplishing at least these five tasks first:

Buy a crate. A crate is an indispensable tool for house training, as well as keeping your belongings and your puppy safe while you are gone. Crate-training takes a few days if your breeder hasn’t already started it with your new puppy, but most puppies take to it quickly if you are diligent.
Choose your vet. If you don’t already have a veterinarian for other pets, ask your friends, co-workers or breeder who they recommend. If possible, schedule a “well puppy” visit with your veterinarian for the day after you bring your puppy home. (Most breeders will require the puppy be examined by a vet within 48 to 72 hours of purchase for the health guarantee to be honored.) When shopping for a vet, don’t hesitate to ask about recommended vaccination schedules, costs, restraint methods, and whether the clinic offers any “extras,” such as boarding or microchipping.
Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class. A training class for puppies aged 8 to 18 weeks is a vital component of your new puppy’s life. These classes will not only get you started on the basics of obedience training and house manners, but should also allow your puppy the opportunity to play with other puppies. This is a must if you plan for your puppy to interact with other dogs throughout its life. Again, ask friends, your vet and breeder for recommendations, and visit the class in advance of enrolling, when possible.
Prepare the menu. Decide before you bring your puppy home what food you will feed. Kibble, raw, home cooked or frozen — the variety of choices at the moment is astounding, so take some time to research options before selecting a food or feeding method. The solution is to choose an option that meets your puppy’s nutrient requirements, and that you feel good about preparing and feeding.
Get some toys. What’s life with a puppy without dog toys strewn about the house? Choose sturdy, easy-to-wash toys that appeal to your puppy’s desire to chew. Rope tug toys and “puppy” chew bones are fine, so long as your puppy is only playing with them while supervised. Do not allow a puppy to chew any toy not specifically labeled for chewing (especially rope or cloth toys). Buy enough toys that you can rotate a couple sets in and out of your puppy’s life — they’ll be like new again!

What EVERY single pet store that sells purebred puppies does

admin — Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:25:24 +0000

How to make sure your German Shepherd is friends with your friends

admin — Thu, 06 Dec 2007 22:31:58 +0000

Flickr

German Shepherds aren’t known for their outgoing, I-love-everybody nature. In fact, the breed standard obliges them to have “a distinct personality marked by direct and fearless, but not hostile, expression, self-confidence and a certain aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships.”

But this doesn’t mean your dog has to bark like a maniac at everyone who comes through the door, or worse, bite or threaten to bite.

The secret to success

The secret to having a German Shepherd who is safe around non-threatening strangers is teach him or her what friendly people look like. The message should be, “Everyone is friendly.” That way, if your German Shepherd meets someone who isn’t, he or she will pick up on the person’s intentions right away.

Temperament Time-Out

Some dogs, no matter how well socialized, are innately shy or innately suspicious. If your dog has a history of growling, snapping or lunging at strangers, do not attempt behavior modification without the opinion and/or supervision of an animal behavior professional.

Start young

Socialization to strangers should begin in puppyhood. Every person your puppy meets should be as kind and as rewarding as possible. This is not a breed that socializes itself. Early puppyhood, from 3 to 12 weeks, is a vital time in a pup’s brain development. While the breeder should have taken care to socialize your puppy until 7 or 8 weeks of age, your job isn’t through. Your puppy needs to meet at least five new friendly people per day, and take at least one trip away from home every day, as well.

If there is a subset of people your puppy seems uncomfortable with (such as young children), expose your puppy to them in a gentle, lighthearted manner. Do not allow others to pick up your puppy by the scruff of its neck, for instance, or flip it onto its back without warning. Have all strangers, children especially, feed your puppy tasty treats (even better if done in exchange for sitting politely)!

The never-ending process

Socialization for German Shepherds doesn’t stop once the puppy is 6 or 7 months. In fact, German Shepherds need regular, diligent exposure to nice and neutral strange people, places and objects until they are close to two years old! This will be a mostly painless process if you are dedicated to teaching your German Shepherd obedience and good manners — he or she can go with you everywhere!

Turning point

Most German Shepherds (and other herding and guarding breeds) begin to differentiate between “strangers” and “their pack” around 7 to 8 months. This is a vital time to remind your dog that no one they meet in the course of everyday life is dangerous.

Oftentimes, a young dog will start barking at strangers or other dogs, raise its hackles, or moves away when strangers approach, seemingly overnight. If your German Shepherd has only recently started to display such behavior, and is less than a year old, chances are he or she is going through a phase in the maturation process.

Be proactive, not reactive

Even if such behavior is a phase of doggie development, it is still unacceptable to the public at large. Start listening to your young German Shepherd about what he or she is or isn’t comfortable with — and act accordingly.

If your dog seems to dislike bearded men, for instance, do not force him or her to interact with bearded men. Instead, keep your distance in a relaxed manner, and if your dog observes the man without barking or growing, praise and feed a treat. If your dog does bark or growl, you must move farther away until your dog is able to focus on you and be calm. Feed and praise the dog for looking at you, making your distance to the undesirable person closer ONLY AS THE DOG FEELS COMFORTABLE. Any signs of discomfort from the dog should be interpreted as though you are moving too fast.

Typically, a soothing laugh from you and a cookie or two given BEFORE the dog begins to react are enough to calm most young dogs’ nerves. But always, always, listen to your dog’s body language before allowing a stranger to pet the dog.

Dogs who move away from a stranger’s touch are stating in no unclear terms that they do not want to be petted. Forcing the issue could lead to a bite!

Management is key

Teach your dog a solid “go to your crate” command, using clicker training. This simple command is a wonderful way to control your dog’s access to strangers while you are at home. Teaching a down-stay can be equally effective.

Remember, not everybody loves dogs, and for those afraid of them, the sight of a grown German Shepherd can be enough to start some folks’ fear signals flowing. Teach your dog to be respectful and polite with everyone, but be prepared to remove him or her from the scene if necessary. Your friends will thank you for it!

Too late?

What can you do if your five-year-old German Shepherd has been hurling himself at the door, teeth bared, every time company arrives — for years? Contact an animal behavior consultant qualified in dealing with aggression issues.

Choosing Toys for Your German Shepherd

admin — Thu, 25 Oct 2007 22:00:41 +0000

Most German Shepherds take their play ultra-seriously — so it’s up to us to find toys that satisfy this powerful play drive, are safe, and last more than 20 seconds once the dog starts using them!

My German Shepherds love fetch above all games, so toys that feed this frenzy are the ones I gravitate toward. Soft latex or plush toys aren’t suitable for most adult shepherds (although some German Shepherds, females especially, enjoy carrying around a fleecy toy like it’s a puppy). Stuffed animals, particularly those with squeakers, tend to be disemboweled after only minutes of playing fetch, and latex ones are torn apart even faster.

Besides fetch, a game of tug with me or another dog makes my German Shepherds’ list of all-time fun activities, so knotted rope bones, strong rubber tug toys or large plastic bones are in the toy box.

My first criteria when choosing a toy is “Will it last more than five minutes?” If the answer is yes, then the toy likely passes the safety test, as well (no word on dog toys recalled from China). The second is, “Will my dog play with it?” Toy-treat combinations, such as products made from rawhide, might be enjoyed, but unless I use them for hide ‘n’ seek, only the dogs’ jaws will be exercised! Outside of treats shaped like toys, German Shepherds are usually happy to make a toy from anything, but it’s important to start teaching your German Shepherd early in puppy hood which objects are his and which objects belong to you.

Here are three of my favorite German Shepherd toys:

If ever a toy was designed specifically for German Shepherd Dogs, the Kong Company has made it happen. The “Ultra” Black Kong toy is made for hard chewers and can withstand more abuse than its red counterpart. If you have one of those rare German Shepherds who does not enjoy chasing or chewing the Kong, stuff it full of canned food and freeze — Voila! A doggie Popsicle!

The Jawz disc by Hyperflite is an extremely durable disc that flies just like a regular one. My large male German Shepherd will destroy a regular plastic disc in one 20-minute play session. Although puppies and young dogs should not jump to catch discs until their growth plates have closed, you can begin teaching German Shepherds of any age how to grab short tosses and snatch rollers off the ground.

The Tug-A-Jug by Premier Pet Products is my new favorite dog toy. Like the Kong, you can pack it with treats (I feed my dogs their dinner by using the screw-top lid to fill the jug), and it stands up to harsh treatment. The rope inside the jug is handy for a game of tug, as well, although my shark-dogs chew it in half first thing — so I don’t leave them alone with this toy unless the rope is removed.

Stop Your Dog From Counter-Surfing

admin — Sun, 21 Oct 2007 12:17:52 +0000

(Or, ‘Hey, Who Stole My #*%(@ Sandwich?!’)

If you’ve been a victim of the disappearing roast trick, you will identify with a recent episode at my house.
I left a sandwich unattended on the table to answer the phone. The conversation was short — less than a minute — but alas, it was too long. I returned to the room to find parts of my beloved sandwich dangling from the jaws of a greedy, four-legged predator.

“Hey!” I yelled, and the culprit, rather than dropping my food, repositioned her grip and took off down the hall.
I gave chase, but before I could reach her, she darted under the bed. Knowing how long it had been since I swept under there, I decided against following her. Muttering oaths, I returned to the kitchen to make a second lunch — and I vowed it was the last time I let a cat steal my sandwich.

Dogs, being typically bigger and better opportunists than cats, practically have turned food theft into a science. While dogs begging for food during mealtimes can be annoying (or cute, depending on your perspective), stealing food from the trash, off plates or counters can be downright dangerous.

I learned the dangers of trash-stealing firsthand after my 6month-old German shepherd puppy spent the day at the vet clinic recovering from food poisoning. With the help of a foster dog, she escaped from a makeshift kennel and tore open a bag of garbage — and ate things that weren’t even food. Tin foil, paper, plastic bags and plastic wrap all made it down the hatch, along with a robust serving of spoiled fare. I came home to a puppy shaking so hard she couldn’t walk, followed by an afternoon of sheer fright and a $100 vet bill. (The foster dog escaped any ill effects.)

Lesson learned: Only three years later do I trust her to be left unconfined in the house. Prevention and patience are the keys to reforming your furry larcenist. So what steps can you take to protect your dog and your foodstuffs?

Use of time-honored booby traps such as yelling, penny shake
cans, mouse traps or pepper-laced food might be effective to halt the most sensitive pooch, but a hardened counter-surfer will only be amused by your exertion. (And the clever pup will perform her scandalous acts on the sly.)

Save yourself time and trouble by following the tips below:

Use trash cans with lids and keep them sealed. Child-proof lid locks work well for all but the most determined dogs.
Crate your dog. If your dog is young, new to the home or a proven trash thief, a cozy and well-appointed crate will put your mind at ease while you’re out of the house.
Clear the counters and tables of all food unless preparing a meal. Make sure each member of the household understands that even one slip-up on a person’s part means many more weeks of training for the dog. Dogs who steal food see the kitchen as a doggy Las Vegas; they may get nothing, or it could pay off big-time.
Supervise your dog. A dog who steals food should be on a leash or tethered out of reach of the counter while in the kitchen. With your dog on a leash, teach an alternate behavior, such as a sit-or down-stay, or a stay outside the kitchen’s entrance. Only remove the leash once you trust the dog to maintain the stay. While you’re in another part of the house, make sure the dog does not have access to the kitchen.
Create a diversion. If you catch your dog running his nostrils along the table rim, gently interrupt him and ask for a sit- or down-stay out of the theater. A peanut-butter filled Kong toy or another attractive article can be used to reward the obedient dog.
If your dog gets hold of something he isn’t supposed to have, do what you must to get it back — but be careful. Many dogs who otherwise don’t guard resources will act aggressively if they have something of high value, such as a loaf of bread. This is the time to throw training out the window and offer a bribe — anything of higher value than what the dog has — to get the dog to trade.
Teach your dog to “leave it.” Start by offering your dog a low-value treat in a closed fist. Say nothing. As soon as the dog stops sniffing and licking your fist, even for a millisecond, say “Leave it,” and open your hand to give the treat. Work up to higher-value treats, extending the amount of time you ask your dog to wait. Begin using the “leave it” command as you present your fist.
Make a “food bowl” zone. Show your dog there is an appropriate place to eat treats, but not off the counter. Put a place mat or food dish in a corner opposite the food-preparation area and place treats inside on a random basis. Combined with a strict policy of keeping food off the counter, the dog will learn to check the food bowl instead.
Use counter-conditioning — literally. With your dog on-leash, place a very boring treat (or even a non-food item, if a treat is too exciting) on the counter. Stand beside the boring treat and tell your dog to “leave it.” Before your dog has a chance to snatch the treat on the counter, drop a more enticing treat on the floor (or in his “food bowl” zone). Repeat, placing increasingly high-value items on the counter.

Finding The Best Name For Your New Puppy

admin — Mon, 01 Oct 2007 13:01:17 +0000

I had a terrible time naming my latest German Shepherd puppy. She came to me somewhat unexpectedly; all my previous puppies were named well in advance, or at least, I had several good ideas. But this time, only two weeks had elapsed between the time I talked to my breeder about her and the time I picked her up (the advantages of finding and sticking with a good breeder)!

After wracking my brains for three weeks, I asked a friend who is a language buff to supply some ideas. Bingo! We christened her Tänzer, German for “dancer” — Tenze for short. If the idea of German names or language appeals to you, Babel Fish Translation is a handy tool. Combing your new puppy’s pedigree is also a great way to come up with names. “Axa,” “Essa,” “Fando,” “Natz,” and “Pia” are all examples of names common to German Shepherd pedigrees.

Of course, your new German Shepherd puppy does not require a name in the native tongue. There are a few good sites to assist you in choosing a name, such as Bow Wow Meow and Pet Names World, which will allow you to search by gender, type of pet and genre.

Thinking about themes can be helpful, as well. Ask your breeder whether he or she has a theme for this litter. A breeder friend of mine gave her second litter apple-themed names. Science fiction, literature, mythology and history are all good sources of fun and unique names. And don’t worry about choosing a foreign-language name that isn’t German; there are plenty of exotic-sounding names in whatever language you like best.

Lastly, when you think you’ve chosen a name, spend some time saying it out loud — even shouting it down the street! Don’t fret if you end up changing it after some time has passed with your new puppy, as they can learn a new name in a matter of minutes.

10 Reasons You Do NOT Want a German Shepherd Dog

admin — Fri, 28 Sep 2007 19:04:18 +0000

“Now, wait a minute!” you’re saying. “Of course I want a German Shepherd! Otherwise, I wouldn’t be looking at this article!” Very good. You have taken the first step towards becoming a responsible purebred dog owner, first by doing your research, and second by taking the time to examine the problems inherent in your chosen breed.

Here are 10 reasons you might want to reconsider your choice of a GSD:

Health problems. The GSD is not a dog for those who just want to plunk down cash for the first puppy they see and head home (in fact, you should never do this with any puppy, for a number of reasons). German Shepherds, like any large breed, are prone to canine hip dysplasia, a crippling and potentially fatal disease. (Although costly hip replacement surgeries have become more commonplace for dogs with severe CHD, the expense and possible complications lead many people to the decision of having the dog humanely put down. This doesn’t, however, exempt the dog owner from the heartbreak of losing their precious companion.) The breed also struggles with or is prone to elbow dysplasia, allergies, cleft palate, degenerative myelopathy, perianal fistulas, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, bloat, panostetis, Von Wildebrand’s disease, Wobbler’s Syndrome, heart and skin disease and thyroid disease. (This is a partial list.) Many of the congenital diseases in dogs can be tested for and therefore prevented by responsible breeders. But you must be willing to ask questions of your breeder to find out what problems have cropped up in his or her lines. (Any breeder who tells you he’s never had a health problem in his lines is either lying or has not bothered to follow up with his puppy owners. Run, don’t walk, in the opposite direction!) Good GSD rescuers will also be aware of such problems, and whether the rescued dog you’re considering has shown symptoms of or has been treated for any health issues while with the rescue.
German Shepherd Dogs shed. I’m not sure who started the rumor that GSDs don’t shed, but if you’ve heard it perpetuated, be prepared for disappointment! The GSD sheds heavily year-round, and “blows” its undercoat (the thick, dense fur under the harsh top coat) twice a year. You can avoid as much coat-blowing with certain long-haired shepherds, although they are considered outside the breed standard. While GSDs require little formal grooming, they must be brushed at least twice weekly and have their coats raked during shedding season to keep them comfortable and to prevent skin problems from developing.
Good breeders are hard to find. Sure, there are shepherd breeders everywhere. But a good GSD breeder is difficult to come by. Among other things, responsible breeders: guarantee against severe hip dysplasia and other inherited disorders; provide written proof of health exams for their dogs; exchange your dog or refund your money if major health problems arise; require you to return the dog to their kennels if you can no longer keep it; keep a waiting list of puppy buyers and carefully screen (ask questions of) each buyer; willingly answer your questions; can tell you why a particular breeding should produce puppies who are a credit to the breed; and ask you to sign a contract with terms and responsibilities outlined. An overview on finding a responsible breeder is available at www.dcweimclub.org/responsible.html. For a more in-depth look, see Dog Play’s “Checklist for the Responsible Breeder: Short list and long list.”
Temperament. As with any breed, temperament in GSDs is best determined on an individual basis. However, the breed standard indicates that the dog must be “poised, but when the occasion demands, eager and alert, both fit and willing to serve in any capacity as companion.” There are many steps you can take to “stack the cards” in your direction. First and foremost, is temperament a priority for the breeder? If not, look elsewhere. There are far too many dogs in the world today to live with one who is not social to people, who guards resources (food/water/precious objects), won’t tolerate young children or has an aggressive reaction towards unusual sights or sounds. Keep in mind that the phrase “ideal German Shepherd Dog” may mean different things to different breeders.
Socialization. This goes hand-in-hand with temperament. All dogs need early and frequent socialization to people, other dogs, cats, young children, loud noise, crowds, the world in general; but with GSDs it is an absolute necessity. You cannot lay socialization by the wayside, thinking it will make your dog a protection dog — in reality, the dog will grow up afraid of unusual encounters, so should the time ever come to protect you, he will be thinking only of his own hide! What does this mean for you? You’ll be out every day with your new puppy, exposing him gradually to new sights and sounds, different people, etc., in a careful manner.
Good GSDs are hard to find. Wait, isn’t this the breeder’s responsibility? Yes and no. Half of your battle here will be solved by finding a responsible breeder (see number 3). However, remember from “Temperament” that the GSD can be many things to many people. Don’t accept less than the best, in terms of a breeder, bloodlines, temperament, conformation and health. In other words, if the shepherd or puppy you are considering differs markedly from the standard (AKC, SV and FCI), look elsewhere. (Do make exceptions for rescued dogs who may not have the best breeding — though the number of “well-bred” shepherds in rescue may surprise you — but be aware of what faults he/she carries and be able to recognize an outstanding example of the breed when you see one!)
Bonding. German Shepherds bond very tightly to their owners, usually to the extent that frequent rehoming can cause behavioral problems brought on by insecurity. If you are considering obtaining a GSD but don’t know what will happen to the dog when you move/get a new job/get married/have children/etc., please don’t get a German Shepherd. (Or any dog, for that matter — wait until your situation becomes stable!) A shepherd can live 10 to 14 years, so you must be prepared to commit to the dog for his lifetime. In addition, this bond requires that your GSD live in the house with you, not out in a kennel or tied in the yard (perish the thought). As pack animals, dogs need close and frequent interaction with their owners, and this applies especially to German Shepherds.
Training. The GSD is a large dog, usually weighing 65-90 lbs. or more. A GSD must be taught manners in the house and with guests, children and the elderly; he must not be allowed to roam free or intimidate passers-by. While German shepherds are relatively easy to train, they can achieve the most success through positive training rather than training that employs harsh methods, choke or shock collars. Shepherds also must be exercised by you and/or be contained in a yard with a real fence — electronic or underground fencing should not be an option for the responsible shepherd owner.
GSDs need a job. This is not a breed for someone who “just wants a dog.” Your GSD will create his own work if you cannot find work for him! A doggy sport or activity such as tracking, agility, obedience training, flyball, Schutzhund, search and rescue, flying disc, herding, therapy work or similar is absolutely necessary to keep your shepherd happy and healthy (and your sanity intact). Do not expect your GSD to be content to lie around the house all day and then do nothing when you get home! He will need both mental and physical exercise — a couple trips around the block is just warm-up time to a GSD.
Shepherds are unique. Why wouldn’t you want a unique dog? For many of the reasons listed above and more! Shepherds are less “doggy” than most breeds, and for this reason it has been said they are “the Cadillac of dogs.” This is certainly true — if you have the time, energy and understanding necessary to choose and raise one with care. A bored, ill-tempered, sickly or untrained GSD can become a nightmare for you and others. Once you obtain a GSD, you and he are ambassadors for the breed, and that means he must be presented at all times as a clean, healthy, well-groomed, and skillfully trained member of his species. Anything less does a disservice to the breed as a whole and to the legions of people who work and dedicate their lives to improving the German Shepherd Dog.

If you’ve considered the above and are still interested in getting a German Shepherd, check out our 15-page ebooklet, “Choosing Your New German Shepherd“!

Don’t Buy That Puppy In The Window

admin — Fri, 07 Sep 2007 13:02:28 +0000

Amid the rolling farmland and scenic sunsets of the Midwest, picture this scene: German Shepherds crammed into tiny cages, elevated over piles of feces. A recent mother sits in one of these cages with pups, her coat filthy, eyes matted and her body thin and dehydrated. Neither she nor the pups have any protection against the elements. The pups wander about on the wire floor, some having already died from disease or exposure. The mother dog cannot bark in protest — a metal rod rammed down her throat has severed her vocal cords. She is bred every heat cycle, and by the time she is four years old will no longer be able to produce more pups. She will be killed, most likely by gunshot or bludgeoning, and one of her daughters will take her place.

Welcome to a puppy mill.

Puppy mills are farms run by dog breeders whose sole intent is to make a living from the dogs they breed.

When breeding dogs becomes a money-making endeavor, both the dogs and the puppy buyers suffer.

German Shepherd owners know that the cost of properly feeding and caring for even a single dog runs in the hundreds of dollars per year. Add to this the necessary preventative care for a pregnant bitch, cost of the stud fee or stud dog (and his care), shots, worming and food for the puppies, and the total can rise to the thousands.

And that cost is the minimum; an ethical breeder will take the time and money required to show her German Shepherds and have both parents screened for genetic diseases, requiring more vet visits, x-rays and blood work.

Suddenly, the money earned from the sale of puppies doesn’t look like much of a profit, especially considering a bitch should only be bred once a year for her health.

But the “licensed” or “professional” pet breeders who operate puppy mills are not concerned with the lives of their dogs. The dogs’ worth is inherent in whether he or she can produce more puppies, to be sold to the highest bidder, a broker.

Brokers gather puppies from puppy mills to sell to pet stores. Brokers are necessary because of the number of breeds in demand; a pet store likes to have several breeds of dogs available for its customers. In addition, brokers arrange for the shipment of puppies to the store.

For healthy development, no puppy should leave its mother before 6 weeks of age, and should not leave its littermates before 7 weeks. Ethical German Shepherd breeders will keep their puppies until they are at least 7 weeks old, many preferring to wait until the puppy is 8 to 10 weeks. Typically, pet store puppies are shipped between 4 and 8 weeks old to arrive “fresh” in the store windows.

Pet store owners and workers will simply lie to their customers about the dogs’ origins, claiming the pups come from “local breeders,” “professional breeders,” or “licensed pet dealers.” While any of the above might be true (after all, anyone who makes a living off his or her endeavor could be considered a “professional”), it does not mean the puppies did not come from puppy mills.

Customers, who up until that point may not have even wanted a dog, do not question what they are told and hand over their money.

Because the puppies were raised in substandard conditions and their parents were not screened for proper temperament or genetic diseases, the customer has just purchased a ticking time bomb.

The 48-hour guarantee that most pet stores offer on their puppies will not cover the life-threatening genetic diseases that won’t appear until the dog is six to 24 months old. Nor will it satisfy those customers whose puppy, having contracted parvovirus or distemper during shipping, dies within those 48 hours.

The guarantee also does not protect the consumer from a puppy’s questionable temperament. In a pet store where I worked as a high school student, a four-month-old Rottweiler puppy for sale bit and drew blood on several employees who went near his food dish. The dog was sold to a family with a two-year-old daughter. The family was not told about the bites.

In addition, pet stores that sell puppies (purebred or mixed breed) without requiring those puppies to be spayed or neutered only add to the number of unwanted dogs languishing and dying in our nation’s shelters.

What you can do to help

Never buy a puppy from a pet store. There is no legitimate reason to purchase a puppy from a pet store. Fantastic pets, including purebreds, are available through your local shelter or rescue group, or by searching for dog rescue groups online. If you must purchase a purebred puppy, research information on choosing an ethical breeder.
Educate those around you about the conditions in puppy mills. You can order educational brochures about puppy mills from the Humane Society of the United States. Write to Reader’s Digest and Dateline NBC for copies of their investigative reports about puppy mills and pet store puppies.
Support legislation opposing the sale of pet store puppies. Contact your state representative or senator to require all puppies sold by pet stores to be spayed or neutered, or to support legislation banning the retail store sales of puppies.
Write a letter to the editor. Concise and clearly written letters to the editor will let retailers know that potential customers won’t buy pet store puppies.
Support your local humane society or Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. These organizations work tirelessly to rescue and rehabilitate the homeless victims of puppy mills.