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Teach your German Shepherd a great recall

Do you dream of having a dog who comes running the second you call? There are several ways to teach your German Shepherd a great recall cue. Below are the rules you must follow to have a German Shepherd who joyfully returns when you call:

Rule 1: Only use your recall word while you’re teaching it (and later, when you’re 99 percent certain your dog will come to you). Using your recall phrase over and over while your dog fails to respond only teaches him that the recall word or phrase is to be ignored.

Rule 2: Don’t call your German Shepherd for stuff he doesn’t like. This includes things like baths, nail trims, being put in the crate, the end of play with another dog, or leaving the dog park! If you have to, go and get your pup. You can also run away, clap or make kissing noises. If you use your recall word and your dog comes, but then you respond with something he doesn’t like, he’ll avoid you when you call. To teach your German Shepherd a great recall, have a plan before calling your dog. If you’re not sure your dog will come to you, use a different recall word, clap your hands, smooch, or run backwards.

Rule 3: Do make a big deal any time your dog comes to you on her own, even if you didn’t call her. To teach your German Shepherd a great recall, we need to build a strong association between leaving the interesting stuff, and coming to us. We want our dogs always to think of coming to us over a variety of distractions, so be sure to reward your dog somehow (with food like liver freeze-dried dog treats, a favorite toy or lots of praise) if he “checks in” with you, on-leash or off. (As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Rule 4: Carry lots of your dog’s favorite treats when teaching the recall. You will need something that packs a punch, like canned cat food or chicken, when practicing off-leash or in new environments. We want our dogs to learn that there is nothing in the environment more exciting than we are — and this might mean leaving your dog on-lead in the woods for several weeks while you feed her sardines for coming when called. Get a long line (like Signature K9 Biothane Long Line, 33-Feet x 3/8-Inch, Black) to practice recalls at a distance, and always use treats your German Shepherd loves. (As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Rule 5: You can swap treats for play with a favorite toy. If your German shepherd loves to play fetch or tug, you can use those as rewards for coming when called. The trick is to wait until your dog gets to you, then start a surprise game by pulling the hidden ball or tug toy out of your pocket. Toys are often easier to carry on walks, as well.

When should I start training my German Shepherd puppy?

“How old does my puppy have to be before I can begin training?”

This is a question I am asked often. The German Shepherd puppy in this video is 10 weeks old; but you don’t even have to wait that long! “Training” starts the day you bring your new dog or puppy home to live with you — GSDs are learning all the time. This is why it is easier to prevent problems and bad habits than to solve them later.

But what most people mean when they ask this question is, “How soon can I expect my German Shepherd puppy to start performing tricks and basic obedience behaviors?” Happily, the answer is the same — immediately. Clicker training is an easy and fun way to accomplish this.

How to stop your dog from barking in class

German Shepherds are notorious for telling everyone in a group training class what they think, typically by barking — loudly — at people and other dogs.

If you’ve been in this situation, then you know how embarrassing or frightening it can be, especially when the other dog owners give you dirty or fearful looks and the trainer implies (or outright tells you) your dog is “aggressive.”

German Shepherd GL

Photo by Raveller

Is Your Dog Aggressive?

First, let’s break this down a bit. Lots and lots of dogs are “reactive” on leash. “Reactive” is dog trainers’ lingo for a dog that barks, growls or lunges in response to exciting stimuli — people, other dogs, cats, squirrels, and the like. Often these “reactive” dogs are perfectly fine off-leash with people and other dogs.

Dogs use aggressive displays, such as barking, lunging and growling, to let us know they are uncomfortable with the situation at hand. Clearly, these displays are unacceptable in modern-day society, and if we don’t react appropriately, our dogs can transition from threatening displays to actual bites. However, in most cases, the dogs are content to announce their presence, so to speak, and we must teach them to be calm in the face of exciting or fear-inducing stimuli.

NOTE: Be wary of a trainer who tells you your dog is aggressive and then proceeds to show you how to physically punish the dog to control the aggressive behavior. With a dog who is merely reactive, this will create even more problems. With a truly aggressive dog, physical corrections are likely to lead to someone being bitten!

A dog who poses a prominent danger to people or other dogs typically responds differently than an insecure or reactive dog. These dogs might:

  • Appear to be on the “offensive” rather than “defensive” — ears forward, mouth and whiskers forward, standing on their “tiptoes” with tails raised;
  • Give hard, unwavering stares to the object of their aggression and are not easily dissuaded;
  • Wait until the “last minute” to lunge or attempt an attack;
  • Have caused another dog to receive veterinary attention as the result of a fight, or have broken skin on a human;
  • Become excited and agitated (can be silent or with high-pitched crying) at the sight of strangers, children, smaller dogs and/or cats.

If your dog displays any of these signs, he or she is NOT safe to have in class and should continue private lessons with an animal behavior consultant experienced in dealing with aggressive behavior issues.

Strategies for Dealing With Barking in Class

First, is there a way for you to physically leave the training area with your dog (another room, down the hall, outside the door, etc.) each and every time your dog starts to bark? Doing so will give your dog the opportunity to calm down instead of continuing to be excited by the sight of other dogs.

Second, most dogs enjoy working with you and getting treats, so if all the fun (fun = seeing the other dogs, getting treats and your attention) stops when he barks, he’ll have to pick another strategy. In other words, it becomes HIS responsibility to stay quiet, not yours to correct the barking.

Third, position your body so you are in front of your dog during class, blocking his view of and access to the other dogs. Do NOT let him sniff or interact with the other dogs without your or the instructor’s permission; and get comfortable asking classmates to keep their dogs from making eye contact with yours. Eye contact is the first precursor to staring, which leads to barking. And of course, you’ll be doing everything in your power to keep your dog focused on you.

If you are thinking you will get very little obedience training done and lots of time out in the hallway with these methods, you are correct! But this is valuable training for your dog.

Ask the instructor if you can repeat the class as many times as it takes to make this work (and if he’s a smart dog, which most German Shepherds are, it shouldn’t take a terribly long time).

So, it looks like this: Dog barks, you immediately start pretending he doesn’t exist and go back the hall/into other room/out of the building. Once he is quiet, can focus on you and perform a sit (or other simple behavior), he comes back inside. Barking = process repeats. If you manage to get inside and have more than two seconds of quiet, reward HEAVILY and keep him busy! Chances are this means you’re not doing what the rest of the class is doing, but that’s OK!

This method works outdoors as well, provided you can get your dog out of sight of whatever it is he finds so enthralling until he settles down.

See “There’s Money In Dogs… Well, Sort Of,” for similar ideas.

Five reasons to avoid invisible fencing for your dog

Reasons I discourage boundary training any dog using an invisible fence, especially a German Shepherd:

    • You still have to train the dog. Many people assume an invisible or underground fence is “plug ‘n’ play” — that is, you simply install it, plop the collar on your dog, and let him play to his heart’s content. This is not the case (as the reputable underground fence dealers will tell you). The dog still must be trained to accept the fence’s boundaries. But the assumption that it is an “easy” way to contain a dog makes me question whether the potential owner is really willing to put effort into the dog’s care and training (i.e., regular walks, obedience), as well as make sacrifices (e.g., increased cost and imperfect landscaping) to accommodate the dog.
    • Electric shock. As far as I know, all varieties of invisible fencing operate on the premise that the dog wears a collar which produces electric shock when the boundary line is approached. Some dogs are so determined to make it through the fence that the shock level must be turned up unusually high. I have seen instances in which a dog wearing a fence collar was inadvertently shocked by the owner’s television, computer or vacuum. (Think of how healthy this is for the poor dog’s mental state!) I have also heard horror stories and seen pictures of third-degree burns caused by fence collars that have malfunctioned. Beware of the underground fencing dealer who tells you this can’t/won’t happen — after all, he’s there to sell you something, not to look out for your dog’s well-being. That’s your job.
    • Dogs can — and will — go through an invisible fence. And once they do, guess what? They won’t come back into the yard for fear of getting shocked; they aren’t stupid. They’re simply willing to take the shock the first time through to get whatever they’re after. And once they’re through, they’re free to chase other animals, get into fights, get hit by cars, be shot at, picked up by animal control, etc.
    • Underground fencing does not keep anyone from entering your property. Therefore, children, cats, other dogs, wild animals and the like are free to come onto your property and tease or terrorize your dog. And dog thieves find underground fencing absolutely delightful — all they have to do is take the collar off the dog and go!
    • This study linking use of or malfunctioning of underground fencing to serious biting incidents. Do we really need to make our dogs more subject to lawsuits and breed-specific legislation? Further reading: “Train With Your Brain” — Green Acres Kennel

Keep in mind this is my reasoning, and there are plenty of responsible rescuers/breeders who will place dogs in homes with invisible fencing. Also understand that a “real” fence can be a hallmark of lazy or irresponsible dog ownership and is certainly not a cure-all. But given the fact that regular exercise can eliminate the need for a fenced yard (a luxury) and given the variety of fencing options available, I’m inclined to turn down prospective homes who insist on invisible fencing, for the reasons listed above.

Teach your dog his name – for real, though

If I had a dollar for every time a dog training client insisted, “Oh, he knows his name!”, and then proceeded to demonstrate by calling her dog repeatedly while the pooch is busily sniffing the ground in front of him — I’d have enough money to buy all my readers an ice cream (or beer, your choice).

When and how these dogs “learned” their names is a mystery — mine weren’t born knowing theirs, nor did a few repetitions during puppyhood do the trick. Let’s dispense with wishful thinking and get busy teaching our German Shepherds the most important word they’ll ever hear: their names. The good news is, this simple, life-saving word can be taught in literally a matter of minutes.

All you’ll need to do is grab your dog, a leash (if you need it to keep him nearby), and 50 or so really, really good treats. I’m not talking about dog biscuits or those pre-packaged, food coloring-filled store-bought treats — we mean business here. I’m talking about hot dogs, chicken, turkey, pieces of salami, roast beef, and the like. The good stuff. The stuff you were always told not to feed your dog from the table. Anything your dog would love to get his little paws on counts. (Obviously, check with your vet if your dog has dietary or medical issues.)

You don’t need to use big treats — slices or bits the size of your pinky nail work just fine for even the largest dogs. This is a treat your dog loves, remember?

If you want to go high-tech with your training, get a clicker as well. Remember to condition your dog to the clicker before getting started, if it’s your first time using one. If you don’t have a clicker, no worries — with this exercise, you can simply skip that step in the following instructions:

  • Place the treats within easy reach for you, but where your dog cannot get them.
  • Say the dog’s name, click the clicker and feed a treat. Do not ask for a sit, do not call the dog from a distance, and do not repeat the dog’s name. Click as soon as you say the dog’s name and feed a treat.
  • If your dog isn’t paying attention, move backwards with the leash in your hand. Wait for the dog to look at you, say his name, then click and treat.
  • Repeat with all treats. Do this exercise at least twice a day in different locations.

Name 1
Name 2Name 3

Once you’ve done this exercise for a couple of sessions, test its effectiveness by saying your dog’s name while he’s not looking. His head should snap up and he should focus his big greedy brown eyes on you in hopes of getting a treat. If he does, congratulations! You’re ready to move him outside and repeat the process. If not, check that you’re still using a super-yummy treat in a non-distracting environment and repeat the exercise a few times before testing it again.