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10 Reasons You Do NOT Want a German Shepherd Dog

“Now, wait a minute!” you’re saying. “Of course I want a German Shepherd! Otherwise, I wouldn’t be looking at this article!” Very good. You have taken the first step towards becoming a responsible purebred dog owner, first by doing your research, and second by taking the time to examine the problems inherent in your chosen breed.

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Here are 10 reasons you might want to reconsider your choice of a GSD:

    1. Health problems.The GSD is not a dog for those who just want to plunk down cash for the first puppy they see and head home (in fact, you should never do this with any puppy, for a number of reasons). German Shepherds, like any large breed, are prone to canine hip dysplasia, a crippling and potentially fatal disease. (Although costly hip replacement surgeries have become more commonplace for dogs with severe CHD, the expense and possible complications lead many people to the decision of having the dog humanely put down. This doesn’t, however, exempt the dog owner from the heartbreak of losing their precious companion.) The breed also struggles with or is prone to elbow dysplasia, allergies, cleft palate, degenerative myelopathy, perianal fistulas, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, bloat, panostetis, Von Wildebrand’s disease, Wobbler’s Syndrome, heart and skin disease and thyroid disease. (This is a partial list.) Many of the congenital diseases in dogs can be tested for and therefore prevented by responsible breeders. But you must be willing to ask questions of your breeder to find out what problems have cropped up in his or her lines. (Any breeder who tells you he’s never had a health problem in his lines is either lying or has not bothered to follow up with his puppy owners. Run, don’t walk, in the opposite direction!) Good GSD rescuers will also be aware of such problems, and whether the rescued dog you’re considering has shown symptoms of or has been treated for any health issues while with the rescue.
    2. German Shepherd Dogs SHED. I’m not sure who started the rumor that GSDs don’t shed, but if you’ve heard it perpetuated, be prepared for disappointment! The GSD sheds heavily year-round, and “blows” its undercoat (the thick, dense fur under the harsh top coat) twice a year. You can avoid as much coat-blowing with certain long-haired shepherds, although they are considered outside the breed standard. While GSDs require little formal grooming, they must be brushed at least twice weekly and have their coats raked during shedding season to keep them comfortable and to prevent skin problems from developing.
  • Good breeders are hard to find. Sure, there are shepherd breeders everywhere. But a good GSD breeder is difficult to come by. Among other things, responsible breeders: guarantee against severe hip dysplasia and other inherited disorders; provide written proof of health exams for their dogs; exchange your dog or refund your money if major health problems arise; require you to return the dog to their kennels if you can no longer keep it; keep a waiting list of puppy buyers and carefully screen (ask questions of) each buyer; willingly answer your questions; can tell you why a particular breeding should produce puppies who are a credit to the breed; and ask you to sign a contract with terms and responsibilities outlined. An overview on finding a responsible breeder is available at dcweimclub.org/responsible.html. For a more in-depth look, see Dog Play’s “Checklist for the Responsible Breeder: Short list and long list.”
  • Temperament. As with any breed, temperament in GSDs is best determined on an individual basis. However, the breed standard indicates that the dog must be “poised, but when the occasion demands, eager and alert, both fit and willing to serve in any capacity as companion.” There are many steps you can take to “stack the cards” in your direction. First and foremost, is temperament a priority for the breeder? If not, look elsewhere. There are far too many dogs in the world today to live with one who is not social to people, who guards resources (food/water/precious objects), won’t tolerate young children or has an aggressive reaction towards unusual sights or sounds. Keep in mind that the phrase “ideal German Shepherd Dog” may mean different things to different breeders.
  • Socialization. This goes hand-in-hand with temperament. All dogs need early and frequent socialization to people, other dogs, cats, young children, loud noise, crowds, the world in general; but with GSDs it is an absolute necessity. You cannot lay socialization by the wayside, thinking it will make your dog a protection dog — in reality, the dog will grow up afraid of unusual encounters, so should the time ever come to protect you, he will be thinking only of his own hide! What does this mean for you? You’ll be out every day with your new puppy, exposing him gradually to new sights and sounds, different people, etc., in a careful manner.
  • Good GSDs are hard to find. Wait, isn’t this the breeder’s responsibility? Yes and no. Half of your battle here will be solved by finding a responsible breeder (see number 3). However, remember from “Temperament” that the GSD can be many things to many people. Don’t accept less than the best, in terms of a breeder, bloodlines, temperament, conformation and health. In other words, if the shepherd or puppy you are considering differs markedly from the standard (AKC, SV and FCI), look elsewhere. (Do make exceptions for rescued dogs who may not have the best breeding — though the number of “well-bred” shepherds in rescue may surprise you — but be aware of what faults he/she carries and be able to recognize an outstanding example of the breed when you see one!)
  • Bonding. German Shepherds bond very tightly to their owners, usually to the extent that frequent rehoming can cause behavioral problems brought on by insecurity. If you are considering obtaining a GSD but don’t know what will happen to the dog when you move/get a new job/get married/have children/etc., please don’t get a German Shepherd. (Or any dog, for that matter — wait until your situation becomes stable!) A shepherd can live 10 to 14 years, so you must be prepared to commit to the dog for his lifetime. In addition, this bond requires that your GSD live in the house with you, not out in a kennel or tied in the yard (perish the thought). As pack animals, dogs need close and frequent interaction with their owners, and this applies especially to German Shepherds.
  • Training. The GSD is a large dog, usually weighing 65-90 lbs. or more. A GSD must be taught manners in the house and with guests, children and the elderly; he must not be allowed to roam free or intimidate passers-by. While German shepherds are relatively easy to train, they can achieve the most success through positive training rather than training that employs harsh methods, choke or shock collars. Shepherds also must be exercised by you and/or be contained in a yard with a real fence — electronic or underground fencing should not be an option for the responsible shepherd owner.
  • GSDs need a job. This is not a breed for someone who “just wants a dog.” Your GSD will create his own work if you cannot find work for him! A doggy sport or activity such as tracking, agility, obedience training, flyball, Schutzhund, search and rescue, flying disc, herding, therapy work or similar is absolutely necessary to keep your shepherd happy and healthy (and your sanity intact). Do not expect your GSD to be content to lie around the house all day and then do nothing when you get home! He will need both mental and physical exercise — a couple trips around the block is just warm-up time to a GSD.
  • Shepherds are unique. Why wouldn’t you want a unique dog? For many of the reasons listed above and more! Shepherds are less “doggy” than most breeds, and for this reason it has been said they are “the Cadillac of dogs.” This is certainly true — if you have the time, energy and understanding necessary to choose and raise one with care. A bored, ill-tempered, sickly or untrained GSD can become a nightmare for you and others. Once you obtain a GSD, you and he are ambassadors for the breed, and that means he must be presented at all times as a clean, healthy, well-groomed, and skillfully trained member of his species. Anything less does a disservice to the breed as a whole and to the legions of people who work and dedicate their lives to improving the German Shepherd Dog.




    • If you’ve considered the above and are still interested in getting a German Shepherd, check out our free guide to Choosing Your New German Shepherd!

    Five things to do before bringing your new puppy home

    Those little balls of fluff are adorable, but life can become miserable without accomplishing at least these five tasks first:

    1. Buy a crate. A crate is an indispensable tool for house training, as well as keeping your belongings and your puppy safe while you are gone. Crate-training takes a few days if your breeder hasn’t already started it with your new puppy, but most puppies take to it quickly if you are diligent.
    2. Choose your vet. If you don’t already have a veterinarian for other pets, ask your friends, co-workers or breeder who they recommend. If possible, schedule a “well puppy” visit with your veterinarian for the day after you bring your puppy home. (Most breeders will require the puppy be examined by a vet within 48 to 72 hours of purchase for the health guarantee to be honored.) When shopping for a vet, don’t hesitate to ask about recommended vaccination schedules, costs, restraint methods, and whether the clinic offers any “extras,” such as boarding or microchipping.
    3. Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class. A training class for puppies aged 8 to 18 weeks is a vital component of your new puppy’s life. These classes will not only get you started on the basics of obedience training and house manners, but should also allow your puppy the opportunity to play with other puppies. This is a must if you plan for your puppy to interact with other dogs throughout its life. Again, ask friends, your vet and breeder for recommendations, and visit the class in advance of enrolling, when possible.
    4. Prepare the menu. Decide before you bring your puppy home what food you will feed. Kibble, raw, home cooked or frozen — the variety of choices at the moment is astounding, so take some time to research options before selecting a food or feeding method. The solution is to choose an option that meets your puppy’s nutrient requirements, and that you feel good about preparing and feeding.
    5. Get some toys. What’s life with a puppy without dog toys strewn about the house? Choose sturdy, easy-to-wash toys that appeal to your puppy’s desire to chew. Rope tug toys and “puppy” chew bones are fine, so long as your puppy is only playing with them while supervised. Do not allow a puppy to chew any toy not specifically labeled for chewing (especially rope or cloth toys). Buy enough toys that you can rotate a couple sets in and out of your puppy’s life — they’ll be like new again!

    What is Canine Hip Dysplasia?

    Canine Hip Dysplasia is a hereditary, degenerative disease common in many large breed dogs and large mixed breed dogs that can cause crippling arthritis in the hips. This disease is especially prevalent in German Shepherds; the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals notes that one in five German Shepherds whose hips are x-rayed and reported to the OFA show signs of the disease.

    Normal hip joints function with a “ball-and-socket” construction; the head of the femur, or thigh bone, fits tightly within a circular inlet in the pelvis.

    Normal Hips
    Source: Gulf Cost Veterinary Specialists

    In dogs who are suffering from hip dysplasia, the ball does not fit snugly within the socket; the head of the femur can be shaped incorrectly, or be a loose fit with the pelvis, or both. This condition causes unusually heavy friction on the joint as the dog moves, which in turn can lead to osteoarthritis, a painful inflammation of the joint.

    Hip Dysplasia
    Source: Gulf Coast Veterinary Specialists

    Hip dysplasia is rated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals as mild, moderate or severe (there is also a “borderline” category, which indicates the dog is capable of developing hip dysplasia). Dogs with hip dysplasia can show few symptoms, or become incapacitated, depending on the severity of the dysplasia, the progression of arthritis, and environmental factors such as weight and exercise level. Although surgical options are available for severely affected dogs, these are often expensive and are accompanied by a long recovery period.

    Hip dysplasia is almost always evident by the time a dog is 18-24 months old. There is no way to declare a dog free from hip dysplasia, or diagnose hip dysplasia, without hip x-rays.

    The most common visible signs of hip dysplasia include difficulty rising, stiffness or soreness following heavy exercise, a distinct gait in which the back legs move together rather than independently, and reduced muscle mass around the hips and thighs. Some severely affected puppies will develop a limp before they’re five months old; to the untrained eye, this limp appears to be on a forelimb, rather than hind, as might be suspected with pain in the hip joints.

    Maintaining a dog with hip dysplasia requires attention to nutrition, weight, exercise and activity levels. Check with your veterinarian regarding medical options, including surgery or anti-inflammatory drugs.

    For more information, see:

    Is Your Dog Ready For Agility Training?

    Agility training is a wonderful, energy-burning and mind-challenging sport for German Shepherds and their handlers. Even German Shepherds not registered with the AKC can participate in agility competition, thanks to a plethora of agility registries such as the United States Dog Agility Association and the North American Dog Agility Council. Finding a good agility class or trainer can take some time, but is a fairly simple process. But how do you know when your dog is ready to start training for agility?

    HMKC 02/24/2007 Fun Match

    Health Check

    Before you being any new training or sport regimen with your dog, take note of his or her current physical shape. Is he the correct weight and eating a high-quality diet? Are his vaccinations current? Does he have any health problems that might interfere with running, or jumping? When in doubt, it is best to have your dog checked by your veterinarian before you begin.

    Keep in mind that puppies, especially large breed puppies, shouldn’t do any serious jumping until their growth plates have closed — usually between 12 and 18 months. Again, ask your veterinarian if in doubt.

    Reality Check

    While agility is often great fun for dogs and handlers alike, there is no question that it requires a higher level of training than does say, hiking, or a game of fetch. If your dog has never taken a training class of any kind, you may want to complete a basic obedience course before attempting agility. Some agility instructors will accept dogs with no training whatsoever, but most recommend the dog at least know how to sit or lie down on command and come when called (at least some of the time)!

    If you’re feeling confident you can train your dog to a basic level without a class, some of the resources listed below may be helpful.

    Agility Prep Resources

    Want to know a little more about teaching your dog to jump safely, quickly and accurately? Jumping from A to Z: Teach Your Dog to Soar is a good introduction to any dog sport that requires a lot of jumping, and agility is no exception.

    Puppy owners can get the most out of their future agility star with the video Sirius Puppy Training, or the book Positive Puppy Training Works (good for puppies of all ages)!

    Don’t worry if your dog isn’t quite ready, or isn’t able to compete in agility trials. There is plenty of time to prepare a young dog for his or her first trial. And older or less mobile dogs can still compete in agility for fun — ask your vet, trainer or club members about agility fun classes and matches. Happy running!

    Five reasons to avoid invisible fencing for your dog

    Reasons I discourage boundary training any dog using an invisible fence, especially a German Shepherd:

      • You still have to train the dog. Many people assume an invisible or underground fence is “plug ‘n’ play” — that is, you simply install it, plop the collar on your dog, and let him play to his heart’s content. This is not the case (as the reputable underground fence dealers will tell you). The dog still must be trained to accept the fence’s boundaries. But the assumption that it is an “easy” way to contain a dog makes me question whether the potential owner is really willing to put effort into the dog’s care and training (i.e., regular walks, obedience), as well as make sacrifices (e.g., increased cost and imperfect landscaping) to accommodate the dog.
      • Electric shock. As far as I know, all varieties of invisible fencing operate on the premise that the dog wears a collar which produces electric shock when the boundary line is approached. Some dogs are so determined to make it through the fence that the shock level must be turned up unusually high. I have seen instances in which a dog wearing a fence collar was inadvertently shocked by the owner’s television, computer or vacuum. (Think of how healthy this is for the poor dog’s mental state!) I have also heard horror stories and seen pictures of third-degree burns caused by fence collars that have malfunctioned. Beware of the underground fencing dealer who tells you this can’t/won’t happen — after all, he’s there to sell you something, not to look out for your dog’s well-being. That’s your job.
      • Dogs can — and will — go through an invisible fence. And once they do, guess what? They won’t come back into the yard for fear of getting shocked; they aren’t stupid. They’re simply willing to take the shock the first time through to get whatever they’re after. And once they’re through, they’re free to chase other animals, get into fights, get hit by cars, be shot at, picked up by animal control, etc.
      • Underground fencing does not keep anyone from entering your property. Therefore, children, cats, other dogs, wild animals and the like are free to come onto your property and tease or terrorize your dog. And dog thieves find underground fencing absolutely delightful — all they have to do is take the collar off the dog and go!
      • This study linking use of or malfunctioning of underground fencing to serious biting incidents. Do we really need to make our dogs more subject to lawsuits and breed-specific legislation? Further reading: “Train With Your Brain” — Green Acres Kennel

    Keep in mind this is my reasoning, and there are plenty of responsible rescuers/breeders who will place dogs in homes with invisible fencing. Also understand that a “real” fence can be a hallmark of lazy or irresponsible dog ownership and is certainly not a cure-all. But given the fact that regular exercise can eliminate the need for a fenced yard (a luxury) and given the variety of fencing options available, I’m inclined to turn down prospective homes who insist on invisible fencing, for the reasons listed above.